Holding down Shift snaps the lines to the grid. I switched to the Line tool (L) and added edges to the mug. I positioned each curve at 2 trixel intervals. Using the Marquee Select tool (S), I copied and pasted the lower half of the ellipse seven times while holding shift to align each selection vertically. The ellipse has blue control points that allow you to resize, move or scale the shape before committing. I performed the second mouse click and expanded the visible ellipse 5 trixels along the X axis before clicked again. Before my second mouse click, I held down the Alt key to change the diameter line into the radius, doubling the diameter length. This initial trixel line is the ellipse diameter. I clicked once and moved the cursor 5 trixels along the Z axis. Holding Shift while drawing an Ellipse snaps the cursor to the grid. The Super Shape tool (L) can be found under the shape tools sub-menu on the left toolbar. I changed the Brush Size and selected the Pixel Square brush from the drop-down brush preset menu. I created a new pixel layer and changed my background and grid colors in the Document tab for clarity.
#HEXELS MAGIC WAND 1080P#
I was aiming for a high resolution with pixelated edges, so the Pixel Trixels 1080p template was ideal. I painted various tabletop objects using pixel layers and the tablecloth on a vector layer. Let’s take a quick look at how the Super Shape tool was used to create some of the objects in this isometric breakfast scene.
#HEXELS MAGIC WAND FULL#
Developed with full control and isometric drawing in mind, this incredible tool can be used with grid snapping and opens up possibilities that were previously a real Hexels head-scratcher. In a nutshell, the problem appears to be that the eraser, even set to 100% Hardness and 255 Opacity (Alpha), is not completely erasing pixels where it is used, at least when it is less than ten pixels wide.With Hexels 3.1 comes the addition of the Super Shape tool. In hindsight I realize I should have taken a screenshot before doing so, but I found an area that still had some smudging in places with too many lines too close together to use the 13-pixel-wide eraser and took two screenshots (attached): one of the image as it appeared to me and one with Magic Wand used on the lines at somewhere between 60 and 85% tolerance. Setting my eraser size larger (13 pixels if I recall right) seems to have gotten rid of these smudges. It appeared that the eraser tool was leaving smudges of not-quite-transparent pixels wherever I used it-pixels the Magic Wand could see but I couldn't. I had used the eraser set to (I think) 5 pixels, while all the lines had been drawn with the Line/Curve tool set to 2 pixels.
I double checked that my eraser's Hardness and Opacity were set to maximum, they had been all along. All over the image were invisible brushstrokes, outlined in the 'marching ants' selection, that I recognized as being where I had erased lines that I hadn't been able to move. It also selected what appeared to be every stroke of the Eraser tool that I had used when making the lineart. The Magic Wand selected all the lines I'd drawn, as I expected. And then I noticed something very strange. "I'll just set the Tolerance higher so Magic Wand will grab the whole line, not just the middle of it." Which I did. (I don't have a functional tablet and stylus at the moment, so the Pencil tool is mostly useless to me at this time.) "Not a problem," I thought. I am using the Line/Curve tool set to Spline for most of the lineart, and my Paintbrush is set at maximum Hardness, but there appears to be no way to get a perfectly black and white image with the Line/Curve tool. The default Tolerance (50%) does not work it selects only the darkest pixels in the lines and leaves behind a grayish shadow on either side of the line's former location. When I make lineart, I often use the Magic Wand tool to select the lines themselves if I want to move part of the lineart without erasing and redrawing.
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